Have you ever made a rookie travel mistake? Soon after moving to Germany, I carefully planned an adventurous weekend filled with hiking through the dense Black Forest. It was late March, and I eagerly expected lush grassy meadows, blooming flowers, and glorious sunshine. Instead, I found myself hiking 8 miles in knee-deep snow, wearing improper clothing, with soaking wet feet. With every step, the ground was collapsing under me, and I was struggling to dig myself out while skiers, and snowmobiles breezed right past me. I undoubtedly felt like an absolute fool! VALUABLE LESSON LEARNED. Now that it is over, I can remember it fondly and laugh at myself (you can laugh at me too). I am here to share my trip experience in order to assist you in planning more efficiently and avoid these kinds of preventable travel mistakes. I want you to have the ability to take full advantage of all the magic the Black Forest has to offer.
I'm sure you're wondering, what is the Black Forest typically known for? This seemingly impenetrable forest region in Germany is affectionately known for being the fabled setting of the popular Grimm Brother's fairytales like "Hansel and Gretel." It is the birthplace of the cuckoo clock, and here you will find a clock so ginormous you can actually take a tour of the inside and view the larger than life-size machinery that makes it tick. No trip to the Black Forest is complete without scarfing down a large piece of their famous cake, a layered chocolate sponge cake that is sandwiched with whipped cream and sour cherries. Ready to visit?! Here are the things you need to know...
Where to Stay- I choose Freiburg im Breisgau as my base. It is a city, so there are many possible options for accommodations. It isn't a quintessential German village that some might desire. However, I was able to find plenty of unique charm wandering its cobblestone streets. Currently, during COVID hotels were not a viable option due to German lock-down policies. However, I encountered zero issues renting an AirBnB ideally located in the heart of Freiburg's old town. This affordable rental had views of the impressive Cathedral from the window, and I could walk out the door and instantly be in the action of the city. If you are looking for somewhere a little more quaint, I would suggest using the nearby Triberg as your base.
Where to Park- Affordable parking in the city center of Freiburg can be next to impossible to come by. So, I opted for parking at the nearest Park+Ride located on Gundelfinger Straße. You can park there for free and take the tram directly to the old town. The easy journey takes 13 minutes one-way. Tickets are 2,16 euro per person and can be purchased at the machine inside the tram. I parked my car here overnight throughout the trip with no issues. If you are uncomfortable with Park+Ride, there are multiple parking garages in the city. However, be prepared to pay a premium.
When to Visit- Unless you're planning winter activities, I would suggest visiting during the summer. When I explored in late March there was significant snow accumulation in a considerable portion of the Black Forest. While the snow-covered forest is beautiful, it wasn't ideal for hiking some of the region's top trails.
Day 1- Hike in the Black Forest
Start your visit by taking a pleasant 20-minute drive to hike around the highest mountain peak in Germany outside of the Alps. The Feldbergsteig is a moderate 7.5-mile trail that loops around Mt.Feldberg and rewards with breathtaking views of the surrounding mountain range. On a clear day, you can see as far as the alps! You will trek through mountain meadows, deep woods, and past glacial lakes. There are 5 mountain huts situated along the trail that serve traditional German fare and refreshments. Their festive beirgartens offer a relaxing resting spot. However, snow and COVID were both working against me. So, when I visited only 1 was open. This particular hut was cash only so make sure to bring euro. In the event that they remain closed, plan to pack a picnic and enjoy it at Lake Feldsee. I would tentatively schedule 5 hours to complete this adventurous trek.
Helpful Hint: There is a paid parking garage (with restrooms) directly adjacent to the start of the trailhead.
Panoramic View Hiking the Feldbergsteig
Frozen Lake Feldsee
On your drive back to Freiburg make a stop at the quaint lakefront town of Titisee. It is a small tourist area built surrounding a beautiful expansive lake. When I stopped, only a few local eateries were open for take-out. All other retail stores were closed. Nevertheless, I enjoyed window shopping and taking a leisurely stroll beside the sparkling water. In the summer you can explore the lake by pedal or rowboat for a modest fee.
Lake Titisee
There are many possible options for dinner once back in Freiburg. I opted for a hearty Five Guys burger, with an enormous mountain of cajun fries. It is located conveniently in the Altstadt (old town) adjacent to the main tram stop. Top it off by wandering through the cobblestone streets and charming squares until you assuredly come across a street vendor serving warm crepes. They are all over Freiburg, assembling ooey-gooey crepes filled with banana, Nutella, sugar, and cinnamon made right before your eyes.
Funny Fact: Germans LOVE Five Guys. You will find one in every major German city, and there will surely be a line of people waiting to consume the American-style burgers and sweet milkshakes.
Day 2-Explore Freiberg
Start your day by wandering through the local market that traditionally takes place everyday except Sunday in the Münster Platz (market square in front of the grand cathedral). You will find numerous vendors selling fresh fruit and homegrown vegetables, colorful flowers, homemade wine, gourmet coffee, and local food cooked to order. Even during COVID this market was in full swing! I began with a chocolate latte from El Purica Coffee Bar, a trendy truck that sells hand-crafted specialty coffee from Costa Rica. It was bold and delicious, every coffee lover's dream! Next, You must stop at one of the many wurst stands and try a Lange Rote. This a traditional grilled sausage popular in the city of Freiburg. It is served on fresh bread, with grilled onions and your preferred condiments. The aroma alone is heavenly. Seriously, one of the most delicious sausages I have ever had. The ideal combination of Costa Rican coffee and a savory German sausage makes a breakfast you're going to wish you had every single day!
Leisurely spend the rest of your morning getting lost down the charming cobblestone streets of Freiburg's Altstadt (old town). There are many hidden alleyways to explore and you are certain to discover something new and interesting around every corner. You are likely to happen upon street food vendors, talented musicians making use of the alley's excellent acoustics, and local shops selling unique homemade goods. Always watch your step. If not you might unexpectedly fall into a Bächle. These are narrow water-filled tunnels that run along most streets in the city. They are one of the countless things that undoubtedly make this city so unique.
Helpful Hint: tiny sailboats on strings and cute rubber ducks can be purchased at the market or many local stores. Kids can watch them float down the street. It is so stinkin' adorable!
For a delicious lunch, try Yepa Yepa's mouth-watering Mexican food. This casual eatery serves fresh and authentic Al Pastor, Barria, Pollo Ranchero and, Fish tacos topped with homemade guacamole and spicy salsa! Enjoy it with a fruity Jarritos Mexican soda or one of their other traditional drink options. Good Mexican food is extremely difficult to come by in Germany, but Yepa Yepa does it right and is certain to sufficiently satisfy your craving.
In the afternoon, drive or travel by public bus 15 minutes outside of the city to Schauinslandbahn's lower station. From there you can ride 1,284 meters up on Germany's longest loop cable car. You will instantly get breathtaking views of the surrounding mountain range. At the high station, there is a food stand that sells warm waffles, ice cream, steaming coffee, and cold beer. You can enjoy relaxing on the swinging porch chairs and take in the magnificent view. There are various activities at the peak such as multiple hiking trails, skiing areas, and an observation tower to climb. However, I was freezing! Consequently, I did not get to experience these specific points of interest.
Helpful Hint: The DB Navigator App is exceedingly helpful when using all forms of public transportation throughout Germany. Choose your starting point and destination and it will calculate the exact transportation lines to take.
View from the cable car during the ascent
Enjoying a coffee at the High Station
After arriving back in Freiburg, relax in one of the city's many green spaces. Seepark is a popular option offering a vast lake with a walking trail coursing around it. Take a walk through the peaceful Chinese garden, and then pick an idyllic spot beside the water. You can relax, converse, play games, and enjoy the lake view. In addition, there is an adorable miniature golf course situated at the entrance to this park. Unluckily, it was closed when I visited. However, it would be worth your time to check while you are there.
Top off your memorable day by going to the best brewery in Freiburg, Feierling. You know it's good when the locals are lined up down the street in anticipation of getting their hands on some of this traditional German beer. They have two to-go windows where a large growler of beer can be purchased for take-away. Enjoy it around an ornate fountain at one of the many charming market squares and experience the vibrancy of the city at night.
Enjoying a growler from Feierling at a fountain
Day 3-Drive the High Road
Today drive The Black Forest High Road (B500), a beautiful tourist route that runs from Freudenstadt all the way to Baden Baden. This drive offers curves and twists through magnificent views of the lush Black Forest valleys, the Rhine Valley, and the majestic Alsace and Vosges mountains. There are many viewpoints to stop and admire the beautiful landscape. At one viewpoint, I was able to excitedly watch a group paragliding above the awe-inspiring mountain range. It was so fun to observe them seemingly jump right off a cliff only to have the fierce wind catch them and take them flying through the sky!
There are many attractive options of fascinating places to explore along this chosen route, but below are the stops I made:
Lake Mummelsee- This is a glacial lake set directly off of the Black Forest High Road. It lies at the base of the highest mountain peak, Mt. Hornisgrinde, in the Northern Black Forest. There is a short walking path around the lake, souvenir shops, as well as a store serving hot authentic German food. Make a stop for a light lunch like a juicy bratwurst or some traditional spatzle with sourkrout. Splurge on a giant piece of the famous Black Forest cake for dessert.
Lake Mummelsee
Oven at Lake Mummelsee baking fresh German bread
Baden Baden- This quaint cosmopolitan area is affectionately known for being a place where people can relax and reconnect with themselves. The historic city is bursting with colorful gardens, bubbling fountains, and a peaceful river running through the heart of town. Contemporary spas, thermal hot springs, a lively casino, and hotels with unparalleled grandeur entice visitors from all over the globe. Enjoy a leisurely stroll on the Lichtentaler Alle, a promenade that follows the pristine Oos River. It winds past ornate gardens and historic buildings. There were many food trucks parked near the grassy riverbank and more gelato shops than I could count. Select a sun-filled spot along the riverbank and enjoy the delicious flavor of your choosing. You won't discover a better place for a relaxing afternoon, people watching and being a part of nature.
If you would like to extend your stay, a night could easily be added in Baden Baden. However, I headed home from here. I sincerely hope you've gained some helpful knowledge from this itinerary that will inspire planning your own Black Forest adventure. As always...
HAPPY TRAVELS,
Emily
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